Saturday, December 27, 2014

ANY QUESTION?

There must be some cruisers out there who at this minute are trying to make up their mind, or already have made up their mind on cruising in Indonesia this year. I never consider myself an expert on anything (although I used to get paid for running marinas, skipper, yacht rally organizer, calligrapher and others odd jobs that I am a little bit embarrassed to mention), but those who may have question regarding cruising in Indonesia and willing to try at your own risk, I will be honored to answer your question, provided I know the right answer. Of course there will be time when my answer would be something like these : "Gee, hell if I know" or "Yes, I used to know that answer but I was young and healthy then" or something like that.

But seriously, drop me an e mail, I will do my utmost to provide you with the answer based on I know, reliable information (I hope), publications, my own experience and others. It is free of charge, because I have committed too many sins in the past and I am looking at this as a form of self redemption.

My e mail : samseas123@gmail.com 
(my older one is still active :samsailindonesia@gmail.com)


               I was young and healthy then and .....knew all the answers

INDONESIAN TRADITIONAL BOATS

One of my greatest pleasure travelling throughout Indonesia is to able to see with my own eyes the beauty of some of the finest traditional sailing crafts which are still being used in Indonesia. I was fortunate enough to own (it is no big deal, because they are relative inexpensive) and sail on some of them (and somehow survived on some foolhardy voyages which I would not recommend to anyone who I consider a friend).

I may be wrong (some of the time), but I don't think there is another country on this planet that has so many different kind of traditional sailboats as Indonesia. Some of them have disappeared but many still can be found throughout Indonesia.

Unfortunately it is very difficult to find any information on them. I have few pictures that I would love to share it with you. I wish I had more.





"KATIR" of East Belitung

Sunday, December 21, 2014

"KOLEK" RACING SAMPAN OF RIAU ARCHIpELAGO

Kolek is traditional racing sailboat found in Riau Archipelago (mostly around Batam and Karimun Islands vicinity). It is built strictly for racing which is held around August every year. Usually racing season start at Belakang Padang (near Batam) on Indonesian Independence Day, August 17th. Few years ago there were over seventy sailboats took part in that race.

They are divided into five different  classes. Class determined by the number of crews, so there are twelve men crews, nine, seven, five and smallest one three. Lately three men crews are more popular, because it is easier and cheaper to find and feed the crew. Not to mention bigger boat cost more to equip and maintain. Feeding twelve men crew (who come with their family) is not simple matter for the boat owner (who are local themselves). But still, twelve men crew boats carry more prestige and attract more attention. 

Starting, just like any saiboat race is the most exciting part where usually timid and shy Malay goes trough personality transformation when all of sudden they become very aggressive and vocal. Sometimes it looks like mayhem on the water where capsizing is a normal occurrence. Speaking of capsizing, this particular boat is highly unstable. For instance, in case of twelve men crews boat, there are about ten men are on trapeze just try to keep the boat upright. What keel? This boat hardly has any keel. Well it has v shape hull, but it comes to tacking, it tacks as well as well a super tanker. So action around markers can be very exciting with everybody try anything under the sun to get the boat changing her direction. They are fine going downwind, but upwind is another matter. To steer it you need a basically long oar which double its function when there is no wind. Yes, it is probably the only racing sailboat in the world which still races when there is no wind.

When there is no wind, the helmsman using this steering oar will scull like crazy assisted by one or two men. There are unwritten rules which sometimes hotly contested when some start their own interpretation. Traditionally there are rivalries among sailboats which come from different islands. Once I had to threat them with the arrest if they did not stop arguing (it is a good idea to have somebody with uniform on your side). 

These boats are sailed by people who are almost all of them are fishermen from surrounding islands, so they can not take to many days off. They just do it for the love it. When they go racing sometime the whole village are empty because most people  just leave everything to attend the race. Racing day is more like a social gathering with people from different islands get together and be entertained by local music group playing their own traditional songs which are pretty much like American country songs minus alcohol. Street peddlers and coffee shops have their field day. Only dead Malay who doesn't drink coffee or smoke.

The boat itself are beautiful thing to look. Sleek hull and colorful sail made of nylon. Some crews treat themselves with fancy football uniforms. Each boat has her own name such as "Unrequited Love" etc. Some are outright funny and outrageous.

Do they cheat to win? Hell, yes....they are human after all. For instance like when there is no wind where you have to depend on this single oar to move the boat, all of sudden somebody come up a piece of wood, plastic bottle not to mention using hand and feet. Also there is a sculling technique some people say it is illegal.

For prize, there are prize money....and trophy. Size matters, so bigger is better. It can be made of cheap plastic crap or whatever, it does not matter. Just make sure the color is gold.



LATEST ON CAIT AND TEMPORARY IMPORT DUTY (CUSTOM BOND)


At this moment I have not received the proposed new procedure on CAIT nor Custom Bond. I guess they are still cooking it. Once I have the copy of documents, I will have it posted in this blog. 

Just hope and pray it would be better that the old one. 

PROPOSED ROUTE FOR SAIL INDONESIA 2015


I have just received from ASWINDO (they are the one that manages Sail Indonesia) proposed route for SAIL INDONESIA 2015.

Flag off in Darwin will be on July 25th. The following are destinations and dates (all  subject to change).


  1. KUPANG                     28 July - 4 August
  2. ALOR                            6 -   9 August
  3. WAKATOBI                 11 - 17 August
  4. EREKE                        18 - 21 August
  5. BUTON                        22 - 25 August
  6. BAU BAU                    26 - 30 August
  7. BOMBANA                   1 - 6 September
  8. TAKA BONE RATE      8 - 14 September
  9. MEDANA BAY            16 - 21 September
  10. LOVINA BEACH         22 - 28 September
  11. KARIMUN JAWA        30 Sept. - 2 October
  12. KUMAI                          4 - 8 October
  13. MANGGAR                 10 - 14 October
  14. BELITUNG                 15 - 19 October
  15. CENTRAL BANGKA  20 - 24 October 
  16. BINTAN                      25 - 28 October



Saturday, December 20, 2014

COLORS OF BUTON

                                                                                                   Photo taken in Bau Bau, Celebes

BOATS AND FLOWER - LARANTUKA, FLORES


PUBLICATIONS ON INDONESIA FOR CRUISERS

These are some books that may help cruisers who are planning to cruise in Indonesia.

  1. Cruising Guide to South East Asia Volume ll
  2. 101 Anchorages of the Indonesian Archipelago by Andrew Scott
  3. Cruising Guide to Indonesia by Andrew Scott (his latest and very recent book)
  4. Indonesia, Lonely Planet Guide
  5. Indonesian Phrase Book and Dictionary, Lonely Planet
On www. sailindonesia.net in Stories section, there are wealth of information about Indonesia written by previous Sail Indonesia participants.

www.noonsite also is an excellent source.

There are must be hundred of blogs and what not out there which maybe useful. Anyone has more information, I would very much appreciate it if you could share it with us.

Friday, December 19, 2014

MAGNIFICENT BANDA NAIRA CANOES


INDONESIAN VISA

There are several  kind of visas, but the one commonly used by cruisers is known as SOCIAL VISIT VISA. They are valid for 60 days (not two months). Those who leave from Darwin (as part of Sail Indonesia), will get their visa in Darwin through David Woodhouse who provide Letter of Sponsor (there is Indonesian Consulate in Darwin). David Woodhouse is one of the founders of Sail Indonesia (www.sailindonesia.net). You still have to go to the Consulate yourself to apply and to pick up your passport. Usually the process will take three days , provided all your documents are in order. 

Problem with some organizer who plan to leave from Port where there is no Consulate or Embassy, process is a bit cumbersome Please check with your Rally Organizer.

You actually can apply from anywhere provided you have that Letter of Sponsor (provided there is Embassy/Consulate near you). 

You are required to bring:
  1. Original Passport
  2. Letter of Sponsor
  3. Two passport size photos.
  4. Visa Fee (US $ 60.00). Cash or credit card.
  5. There will be forms to fill out (provided by the Consulate/Embassy)
Because this Visa in only good for sixty days while the program usually run for three months, you have to extend your visa at some point. Rally Organizer usually handle this on your behalf, although you still required to make one visit local Immigration Office. There are some cruisers who may leave before their visa expire, so no problem here. 

Social Visit visa can be extended up to six months (third extension a bit cumbersome). Visa extension cost US $35.00. Process normally take three days (better do this at small town office rather than do it at the big city where there are backlogs). Your Rally Organizer will handle all the paper works. They usually charge extra for this service. Starts from US 50.00 (included Visa Fee). Agent will charges more. 

Those who plan to leave at some point and rejoin their boat later, are advised to get their VISA ON ARRIVAL when you land at the Airport/Port Terminal. It is good for thirty days (can be extended for another month). This visa costs US25.00 (I am going to double check on this).

You are advised to do your Visa Extension one week before it expires. There is US$ 30.00 fine/day for overstay.

Usually I miss something. When it come back to me (eventually or never), I will have it posted.

BALINESE "JUKUNG"

Not many years ago, I was walking on the beach somewhere in Eastern coast of Bali with my good friend Francis Lee of Raffles Marina, Singapore. There were more than one hundred of these lovely Balinese jukungs lying on the beach. I did not remember what I had for drink that day when I said to Francis "I think I'd love to sail that thing to Batam". "You would?" said he. I should've said "No, I was just kidding". To make story short he bought this lovely freshly painted Balinese jukung which was a bit small for about $400.00. That's right, 400 dollars with new set of sail which set me back about thirty dollars. 

Few weeks later I set sail on this pretty little thing for my intended destination which was Batam. I think it was about less than one thousand miles. ....actually I am bit embarrassed to tell you this story. Sailing on a small outrigger which sit so low on the water with hardly room to stretch my leg over open sea was not only crazy idea, but it was a dumb idea. No, no cover except for my hat, my friend. What do you expect for four hundred dollars.

I made what I thought was going to be a brief stop in a small village along the coast of Bali before I head out for open sea. Few hours after I landed I was arrested by the police for being a suspicious character which was a fair accusation. I finally convinced them that I was on some kind of mission. They probably figured rather than had to feed me, they finally let me go. They'd probably doing me a big favour if they put me in jail.



So off I went. I have to admit it was one on the worst trip I've ever been on. Unfortunately, somehow I managed to cover about 500 miles before I finally came to my senses. That happened after after my boat was almost full of water and nearly got run down by a ship. Needless to say I was exhausted and a bit scared to tell you the truth. By then I was about 150 miles offshore.

So, I went South thinking that I knew I would end up somewhere in Java, catch a bus and be home the next day. As my luck would have it, the wind died and I was just floating helplessly. No, I did't have an EPIRB or radio. They cost much more than the boat I was on.
To make story short, a local fishing boat appropriately named "Jango" finally rescued me. I aws taken to this fishing port where the captain of this fishing boat took me to his house to recover. He made sure that I was fully recovered before he put me in the bus head for home. 

My Balinese jukung? It probably still lying on the beach in this village of Paciran, East Java. I swore that I would't get near one again. Did I swear.....?

Thursday, December 18, 2014

SAIL INDONESIA

It looks like there will be SAIL INDONESIA 2015. As it is now there are three proposed routes on this year's program. Usually the final decision on route will be made on the next couple of months (January or February). I will keep you posted on the development. 

Regarding other Rally or Race, I will find out more about them.

                                                                                                                                                                              Balinese fisherman



NO VISA REQUIRED FOR AUSTRALIAN

As of January 1, 2015, Indonesian visa is no longer required for Australian. Usually visitors from certain countries listed on "VISA FREE" are given 60 days visa. I will check the details

QUOTATION OF THE DAY....

OLDER PEOPLE SHOULDN'T EAT HEALTH FOOD, THEY NEED ALL THE PRESERVATIVES THEY CAN GET.

Robert Orben

MORE INFORMATION ....

Despite all those available information, based on my experience, there were numbers of cruisers knew so little about Indonesia before they entered the country. Being open minded person like me I could understand that the thrill of pleasant surprises. On the other hand, because of this relatively long voyage and most people probably only do it once in their lifetime, being fully informed (whatever that means) would greatly help cruiser in preparing them and their boat  for this trip. Not to mention that it would enhance their experience (did I get it right?)

Since 2009 Indonesian Government have helped sponsoring yacht rallies. It was really big help to organizers who in most cases were in it not for financial gain. Those entrance fee paid to organizers, actually paid to organizers in Australia, New Zealand or wherever. Fraction of it may go to Indonesian side. To make story short, Indonesian side are not making money on this venture. In contrary, Indonesian Government (including all those local Governments) spend huge amount of money for staging all those events during these three months. For instance at one of the destinations this year, one local Government staged a colossal dance that could have come from Hollywood set which involved twenty thousand dancers (yes .... twenty thousand).

Well, just in case you are wondering why they want to spend all those money knowing they are not the richest country in the world. The answer is simple. Indonesian think (I hope they are right) this is one of the best ways promoting the country to outside world. Especially those areas where the best way visiting it by using boats. This is one country that definitely could use good promotion. With thousand of islands, hundred of ethnic groups with each has their own unique tradition, language, custom, dress (some has no dress at all), cooking and what not, this is very interesting country to visit. Not to mention it is very beautiful country. Most of it anyway.

The problem with these Government sponsored programs is sometimes they want you to go to the places the cruisers do not want to go for variety reasons (mostly technical and logistic). Can't blame them, because three allocated months is just bit too short. Yachties by nature is collection of captains or boat owners who prefer to do they own things ... if they could. After all, why spent your hard earned money in buying a boat and having someone tell you where to go.

It looks like I got sidetracked here.

Once you decide to sign up with whoever that suit you (after studying their web sites, reading blogs, talking to others cruisers, accountants and checking your horoscopes) time to do real stuff. You probably know better than I do regarding get your boat or spouse ready for this little adventure, so I'd better write something else. 


Wednesday, December 17, 2014

PLANNING OF CRUISING IN INDONESIA?

                                                                                                                                           Sail Indonesia fleet at Lowoleba, Lembata

It is safe to say that thousand people have cruised through Indonesia on their yachts. Each has different stories regarding their own experience. Most if not all cruisers, gaining their initial information on cruising in Indonesia from these invaluable sources. Actually there are more and more information are available in each passing day through Internet and some publications. This blog is just another addition to array of information which I hope may be useful to other cruisers.

The fact that I am Indonesian who has a bit of experience in sailing (owned a 40 footer S&S) and happened to spend considerable time abroad may give me a slightly better advantage in term to be able to provide more rounded picture about Indonesia. Well .... I may be wrong. Readers will be the judge.

Going cruising by joining the Rally maybe not everyone's cup of tea. But it has many advantages such as:

  • Saving you considerable time, money  and headache regarding paperworks (visa, permits etc.). Rally Organizer will process your necessary permits for your boat, assist you with your visa application and extension and CIQP process. 
  • Having Rally Organizer provide you with information, assist you with logistics, case of emergency, local contacts etc.
  • Rally Organizer working with local Governments will have numerous locally arranged traditional shows, dinners, tours (most of these are free of charge) which most of them will not be available if you come on your own.
There are several Rallies are held every year. The oldest one and biggest one is Sail Indonesia (www.sailindonesia.net) which has been organizing rally since 2009 (officially). There will be more detail information on these organizers and Rallies.

Each of these Organizer will charge fee for joining the rally. The amount is varies (in average last year cost about US $500.00. It is really quite a bargain when one considers what you get in return.

Although you are registered with these organizers, you are not under any obligations to follow the route that have been planned by the organizer. But by not following the planned route, you cannot expect support from the organizer. Usually organizer will have a support team in each destination to provide any assistance (among others).

Some of these organizers have the support of Central Government or Local Governments. Without their support it is very challenging for any organizer to mount these Rallies, considering the length of time, the distance, numerous stops, different Government agencies involved, number of yachts and so on. 

To be continued...

ABOUT THIS BLOG

I grew up in a small island in Riau Archipelago which is part of Indonesia many many years ago. Waters has been a big part of my life. I think I learn how to sail before I rode my first bike. Although I've been sailing since I was I little boy, I never think myself a good sailor. I guess this why I prefer to sail singlehanded. 

Yes, I have done some long distance sailing which unfortunately wasn't long enough. Now I live in the mountain somewhere in West Java with my young family. Somehow I haven't managed to put ocean behind me. It keeps showing up in the front of me. I am afraid this blog is the proof.

My main reasons for creating this blog is to share what I know with whoever interested in cruising in Indonesia. I have to admit that I get a lot help from friends and foes in filing up empty spaces here. Those who may question about some grammatical or typographical errors or whatever, I do beg for an apology (both of my parent spoke Malay). I hope it wouldn't get your boat on corral reef somewhere.

Indonesia as everybody knows is a vast Archipelago, so if somebody claims he or she knows all those beautiful safe anchorage, I suspect he or she may have had too much too drink. I have been to many places in Indonesia, but the more I know I realize that there are a lot more that I do not know.

Yes, I did get involved with Sail Indonesia for few years until I came to my senses. This is also one of the reasons why I create this blog knowing that whatever I put in it would help some people (hopefully). 

Enough of this intro.


WELCOME TO MY BLOG

Halo Readers,

This is my first posting, so first I'd better introduce my self. My Indonesian name is Fazham Fadlil, but most people by now call me "Sam". I've been called worse, but this is the name that stuck.